Napa Valley travel guide: What to do in the wine region- from wineries to hot air balloons

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Napa Valley is the home of more than 400 wineries so it is no surprise the landscape is full of rolling hills and large vineyards. What is surprising, however, is that Napa only produces around four percent of California’s wine with its reputation definitely preceding it.

Sample the local drinks

Artesa Vineyard & Winery

After an easy one hour drive from San Francisco, I headed straight to the Artesa Vineyard & Winery for a tasting.

This took place on a balcony overlooking the estate and the Los Carneros region.

Artesa was established more than 30 years ago by the oldest winemaking family in Spain and it blends history with modern architecture.

Eagle-eyed wine fans may also recognise the location from scenes in the Netflix movie ‘Wine Country’ when it gained praise from the star Amy Poehler for the “killer views”.

Aside from the Hollywood-worthy panoramas of rolling hills, Artesa is of course loved for its wines.

The vineyard is best known for sparkling wines and Pinot Noir and I was lucky enough to try them both.

I sampled the Artisanal Tasting menu, priced at $45 (around £36).

It featured five of the vineyard’s top wines, ‘2021 Rosado, Napa Valley’, ‘2017 Chardonnay, Estate Vineyard’, ‘2018 Pinot Noir, Estate Vineyard’, ‘2017 Tempranillo, North Coast’ and ‘218 Rive Gauche, Napa & Sonoma County’.

The wines were served by knowledgeable and friendly staff who talked through each sample before allowing me to sip on the wine at my own pace.

My personal favourite was the 2021 Rosado which was a Malbec and Tempranillo blend.

The tasting room is open Monday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm and there is a range of tastings available.

Chimney Rock Winery

Chimney Rock Winery impressed me before I even reached the building.

This was all thanks to the long driveway which runs right through the vineyard.

The winery is open on what is a formal golf course and the building was designed inspired by Cape Dutch-style architecture.

I got the chance to tour the 119 acres of vineyards and discovered there are microclimates and different temperatures even within the estate, meaning extra care was needed when growing the perfect grapes.

Currently led by winemaker Elizabeth Vianna, quality is a top concern and only the best blends are released.

The vineyard has produced a range of different wines over the years and staff often try out new blends.

To keep the high level of quality in the wines, winemakers use the best barrels and will only use them a couple of times.

As well as touring the lush vineyard, I was also able to try a range of the wines.

The wine was all about the Cabernet and I sampled ‘2018 Cabernet Franc’, ‘2015 Elevage’, ‘2015 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon’, ‘2018 Ganymede Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon’ and ‘2017 Arete Cabernet Sauvignon’.

The tasting opened my eyes to the different flavours of red wine and I was particularly drawn to the 2018 Cabernet Franc.

Tastings are available to book from 10am to 5pm daily at a cost of $65 (around £53) per person for a unique 60 minute experience.

Inglenook Winery

Arriving at Inglenook Winery was like walking onto a film set for a 1920s flick. And when I learned it was owned by a Hollywood director, I could see the influence.

It dates back to the 1800s and tastings were held in a grand wine library.

Inglenook was originally bought by Captain Gustave Niebaum who focused on producing some of the top wines until his death in 1908.

A number of years later, his great-nephew took over the operations and it has since enjoyed success with various owners including America director Francis Ford Coppola of ‘The Godfather’ fame.

I was intrigued to try the wines and I was offered three samples with snacks paired by Estate Chef Alex Lovick (the mushroom pâté was a personal favourite!).

I sipped on ‘Edizione Pennino Zinfandel’, ‘RC Reserve Syrah’, and ‘Estate Cabernet Sauvignon’.

Each wine was talked through and I was encouragingly told that the best wine is the “one that tastes best to you”.

For me, that was the estate’s first red wine, the Rubicon.

It is a Bordeaux-style wine designed to be “a wine that can please contemporary taste” but with a key “historical aspect”, according to Coppola.

If visiting Napa, it is definitely worth stopping by for the history, wine and food.

There is also a museum on the grounds for those looking to learn more.

The tasting experience is available Thursday to Sunday from 11am to 3pm, priced at $100 (around £80) per person.

While Napa offers up stunning wines for every palate, it has you covered if wine is not your thing.

California Brandy House can be found in a central downtown location and offers a range of premium California brandies with tastings available for walk-ins.

This takes place in a trendy tasting room which has astounding attention to detail.

Guests can learn more about its award-winning brandy by picking from a range of flights: the California Brandy Flight, the Argonaut Flight and the Germain-Robin Flight.

The Argonaut brandies are distilled from various grapes grown in California, aged in ex-bourbon barrels.

The Germain-Robin brandy was created by Ansley Coale and Hubert Germain-Robin, who met while Germain-Robin was hitchhiking.

In contrast to other California brandies, it was created with traditional alembic cognac stills and complex California wine grapes.

I was able to test a mix of Argonaut and Germain-Robin brandy with my flight.

I was talked through the history of the company as well as the tasting notes of each brandy.

I tried the Speculator, Fat Thumb, Saloon Strength, Germain-Robin and Germain-Robin XO.

Fat Thumb stood out for me for its sweeter flavours, including apple, caramelised banana, coconut and vanilla.

Tasting prices start from $25 (around £20) per person.

Where to eat

Many will travel to Napa Valley for the wine and sunshine, but it also offers some of the best food on the West Coast.

CIA Copia

Some of the best food I was lucky enough to try in California was served in CIA Copia.

CIA, or the Culinary Institute of America, really gives a culinary experience to all guests who visit.

It is part of a group of culinary schools with locations across the world including New York, Texas and Singapore.

The organisation has the inspiring concept of training chefs at the cookery school who go on to work in the kitchens of the restaurants and beyond.

The Napa restaurant was based in a building which had a range of facilities – including kitchens where locals and professionals alike can take cooking classes.

It has two large lecture halls fitted with fully-stocked kitchens for demonstrations, and also offers room for events.

I sat outside on the gorgeous terrace next to where the restaurant grows a lot of its own ingredients. I dined on a selection of items from the menu.

To start, I enjoyed the soft and sweet Grove Bread which was served with the chef’s cultured butter.

Throughout the meal I tucked into a variety of perfectly cooked dishes including Swordfish Kebab’s, Scallop Ceviche and ‘Blooming Maitake Mushroom’.

The meal was finished off with a delicious aperitive, created in house.

Boon Fly Café

If you are looking for somewhere to refuel between tastings, Boon Fly Café is a must.

Offering a “contemporary roadhouse atmosphere”, the restaurant serves everything from a quick brunch to gourmet dinner.

I stopped by for lunch and tucked into a Californian staple – Beer Battered Fish Tacos.

These were served in a generous portion with spicy slaw and lemon crème fraiche which complemented the perfectly cooked fish.

The friendly, laid back atmosphere allowed a relaxed lunch but the speedy service ensures it is also somewhere you could stop if short on time.

Before heading off, I grabbed a serving of Boon Fly Donuts which were served warm with an indulgent hot chocolate dip.

If you stop by, I would recommend picking up a batch – they can even be boxed up and taken on the go.

Compline Restaurant and Wine Shop

Compline has a central location in downtown Napa.

On arrival, diners are greeted with an impressive wall of wine with offerings from all over the world.

Venture in further and you will find cosy but relaxed decor which complements the friendly service.

As the name would suggest, guests can visit to browse the wine shop or to enjoy a lunch or evening meal.

I tucked into the artichoke risotto which was served with parmigiano, green garlic and radish pod.

The food came out quickly and was fresh and bursting with flavour.

The staff were more than willing to help and happily shared recommendations from the extensive wine menu.

I settled on the delicious Californian Chardonnay, byPass Wines Sonoma Valley and enjoyed a glass before heading off.

What to do

If the expansive selection of wineries isn’t enough, there are lots of other things to keep you visit during a trip to Napa.

Napa Valley Balloons hot air balloon ride

This is a must for breathtaking views of Napa Valley – but it’s not for the faint hearted!

The balloon ride had an arrival time of 5am so we could take to the sky during sunrise.

Don’t worry about the early start though as Napa Valley Balloons have you covered with fresh coffee, tea and water.

While being up in the air felt daunting at first, I soon settled into it and enjoyed views of California from the sky for around one hour.

Our pilot pointed out different sights and answered all questions.

The descent will often land in a different spot, the pilot explained, as the balloon is very much at the hands of the wind that day.

After a smooth landing, we were transported by van back to the meeting point where we raised a glass with sparkling wine and orange juice.

Packages start from $299 (around £240) per person.

Napa Valley Gondola

Jumping on a gondola may not be the first thing that comes to mind when visiting wine country, but it is something everyone should add to their ‘to do’ list.

I sat at the front of the gondola for a sightseeing cruise down the canal.

Our experienced guide chatted to us about the area and gave recommendations of what to do while Italian music played softly in the background.

The cruise ride lasted around 55 minutes for groups up to six, with prices starting at $160 (around £130).

Where to stay

Vista Colina Resort

During the two night trip, I stayed in the Vista Colina Resort, the sister property to Meritage Resort & Spa and right across the road.

Upon checking in, I was offered water and sparkling wine with complementary refills available.

My room was on the sixth floor and overlooked the patio outside with views of rolling vineyards in the distance.

It had a large private balcony, which was the perfect place to relax and take in the scenery with a drink from the in-room Illy coffee machine.

If you fancy something stronger, there is a small grocery store located downstairs offering local wines, as well as food and souvenirs.

The hotel may be perfectly situated to reach all Napa has to offer, but guests barely need to leave the hotel.

As well as two pools, guests can keep themselves entertained with a bowling alley, vineyard walking trail, fitness centre, spa and rooftop terrace.

There are also a number of dining options available including the Olive & Hay, Blend Cafe and Crush Lounge.

Guests can even sign up for a session at the on-site tasting rooms.

Fact box

For more details and information, please visit:

Visit Napa Valley